Guide to Wire Gauges in Jewellery Making
- Jean Healey
- Jun 2
- 2 min read
What Is Wire Gauge?
Wire gauge refers to the thickness (diameter) of a wire. The most common system for jewellery making is the American Wire Gauge (AWG). In this system:
The higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire.
The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire.
Wire Gauge Chart
Gauge (AWG) | Diameter (inches) | Diameter (mm) | Common Uses |
12 | 0.080" | 2.05 mm | Heavy bangles, structural pieces |
14 | 0.064" | 1.63 mm | Neck wires, armatures |
16 | 0.051" | 1.29 mm | Thick jump rings, clasps |
18 | 0.040" | 1.02 mm | Ear wires, sturdy components |
20 | 0.032" | 0.81 mm | General purpose: head pins, eye pins, small jump rings |
22 | 0.025" | 0.64 mm | Wrapping wire, links |
24 | 0.020" | 0.51 mm | Light wrapping, wire weaving |
26 | 0.016" | 0.41 mm | Wire wrapping, detailing |
28 | 0.013" | 0.32 mm | Delicate wrapping, fine weaves |
30 | 0.010" | 0.25 mm | Micro-detail work, stitching beads |
Choosing the Right Gauge
1. Structural vs Decorative
Thicker wires (12–18 gauge): Provide strength and are great for structural elements like frames, bangles, or neck wires.
Medium wires (20–24 gauge): Used for connecting elements like jump rings, ear wires, and head pins.
Thinner wires (26–30 gauge): Best for wire wrapping, crochet, or weaving into delicate patterns.
2. Soft vs Hard Wire
Dead soft: Very malleable. Best for intricate wraps.
Half-hard: Holds shape better. Ideal for ear wires, hooks, and functional components.
Full-hard: Strong but tough to shape by hand. Used in applications needing durability.
Best Wire Gauges for Common Jewellery Types
Jewellery Type | Recommended Gauge |
Ear wires | 20–18 |
Jump rings | 18–16 |
Head/eye pins | 20–22 |
Wire wrapping | 24–30 |
Bangles/frames | 14–12 |
Bead stitching | 28–30 |
Tips for Working with Wire Gauges
Use appropriate tools: Heavier gauges require stronger pliers and cutters.
Test for skin sensitivity: Some people are sensitive to thicker ear wires.
Practice with copper or brass: Before using expensive silver or gold.
Work-harden wire as needed: Twist, hammer, or tumble to make soft wire more rigid.
Wire Materials to Consider
Copper: Affordable, easy to work with. Great for practice.
Sterling Silver: Classic choice, good for both structure and wrapping.
Gold-filled: More affordable than solid gold, retains colour well.
Aluminium: Lightweight, available in many colours, but softer.
Brass/Bronze: Durable with a vintage look.
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